Living the dream

Sanibonani!

We had our first language test the other day, and I think it went OK. I’m not an expert, but I’ll probably be at the level I’m supposed to be by the time we finish pre-service training. We have to test Intermediate Low, which means essentially that we can get our point across in siSwati when dealing with a “sympathetic listener.” Here’s hoping most of my listeners are sympathetic over the next two years.

It’s been a lot warmer, and I don’t even have to wear socks at night. Pretty exciting!

Also on Sunday, some PC friends and I got together for breakfast. We (well, my friend Walker) made pancakes of flour, sorghum meal and oats. They also included cinnamon, sugar, apples and bananas. He made syrup of oil, water, brown sugar and orange zest. My standards might be lower after more than three weeks here, but the pancakes were to die for. I mean, these were extremely legit pancakes. Soooooo good. The breakfast party included my new friend Tim, who is a fellow St. Louisan. We’ve had the pleasure of talking some Missouri/StL stuff, which is definitely nice.

We learned health words the other day. HIV is ligciwane lembulalave. In siSwati, C’s are a click made by pressing the tongue against the back of the top teeth and releasing air (almost a “tsk” sound).

Ligciwane lembulalave translates to “the virus that is killing our country.”

We had a visit from staff members from three clinics in Swaziland that are operated by Baylor. We talked more about HIV and what’s driving the epidemic. The women who spoke to us said to slow the rate of new infections, men in Swaziland will have to change their attitudes. This is partly because women often don’t have the power to insist upon condom use. In Swaziland, women are more often aware of their HIV status because they are tested at prenatal clinics and are provided with treatment to avoid transmission to the baby. It’s complicated, though, because then some men believe the woman brought HIV into the relationship. Although this is sometimes the case, it can lead to negative domestic consequences. The situation is complex. I’m by no means an expert, but I look forward to learning more.

We also watched a South African movie called “Yesterday.” I highly recommend it to all of you. It’s about HIV, and the story is simple but powerful.

We’re scheduled to learn our placements on Friday. I’m excited to find out where I’m heading, though I won’t be able to give out my exact location on the blog (PC asks us not to do that). Regardless, I’ll be able to tell you the region of the country. I’ll be able to receive mail at the address I provided earlier for the duration of my service, so please send any notes that way until you hear otherwise.

I’ll also get my cell phone this week. It’s cheaper for people to call me than it is to call out, but calls to and from the U.S. are still pretty expensive. I do plan to get one with Internet capabilities, so y’all will be hearing from me more frequently (I hope).

I’m on my sixth book of service, having entered one of the classics anthologies on my Nook. I’m finally reading some E.M. Foerster. Having read some Arthur Conan Doyle and Edith Wharton, I’m starting to tire of the prim writing style. I wish I had some Hunter S. Thompson floating around, but I can’t remember if I brought any in my other bag. I also wish I had some works by African authors to nose through; I don’t think I brought any (for shame!). On the whole, though, I’m very happy with the lifestyle and all the reading I get to do. Getting up at 5 a.m. and going to bed at 8 p.m. suits me here.

Sala kahle!

Notes

* I've gotten a request to talk a bit more about the men's role in Swaziland. Honestly, I don't encounter a whole lot of men. The father on my homestead is a farmer, and he's very busy. I see him occasionally. There are some brothers-in-law on the homestead as well, but I haven't officially met them. Everyone seems very nice. Some of my friends have gotten marriage proposals. This is pretty common. A neighbor also is trying to marry me to another volunteer. (Don't worry, JMW. I politely declined.) Marriage is definitely a crucial union between families, and it's important financially as well. More on this in time.

* I got more mail! Thank you so much to Anne, Jor, Sara and Meggie. You guys are the best. Please keep it coming if you have the time and inclination. The letters will always make me happy. Postcards are good too, and I'll be able to decorate my hut with them.

* We get cell phones next week, which will make Internet access a bit easier. Please be patient with me in the meantime. Also, please feel free to let me know when major news breaks (saw the horrible stuff about the shootings in Colorado). Please also keep me apprised of your news as you see fit. I want to stay plugged in!

* If you want to send me ground coffee, feel free. =) I can get it here, but I definitely am open to something tasty from the U.S.

* I have Sunday off this week, and I'm hoping to make it to church with my family. I haven't gone yet. They attend an apostolic church in the village.

* My language test is Monday. Think good thoughts!

p.s.

Sorry about the repeat posts. The Internet here is sketchy, and it kept giving me error messages while I tried to post.

Hello again!

A post I wrote last evening:

July 17, 2012

Tonight was the first night I pulled out my long underwear. The current PCVs had warned us that it gets cold here, but we hadn’t experienced much of that. Our first two weeks consisted of cool nights and very warm days. Things have taken a turn for the frosty. Honestly, I’m glad to put these clothes to use. I’m all geared up to go snowboarding, minus the snowpants (and a few other key things). The winter here reminds me a lot of Steamboat summers. It’s pretty.

There are a lot of grass fires in the mountains of this area still, which is alarming until you realize that no one seems to concerned. They don’t go far before burning out.

We have our first language test next week, and it’s only a matter of time before we learn our placements. We’re all nervous and excited to find out where we’ll spend the next two years. We’re lucky in Swaziland in that no one will be THAT far away from another volunteer. The perks of a small country are many.

PC gave us a spa day on Tuesday, showing us ways to relax and to make our huts feel like home. We did yoga, meditation, arts/crafts and pampering. There were milk foot baths with essential oils. It was pretty impressive.

The first week or so went pretty slowly for me, as I got accustomed to the training schedule and the changes. Now that I’m settled in, things seem to be moving much faster. It’s a bit surprising, really.

Ohhhhh, and team JHSPH has really come through from the starting gate. Not only have I received my first package and first letter (thanks, Meg and Susannah!), but I also have a guardian angel of caffeine. I’d intended to buy a French press and had been getting by on instant coffee till that was possible. Lo and behold, a Hopkins MPH grad passing through the SWZ turned out to be my savior. She’s a friend of one of our trainers, who works for PEPFAR, and bequeathed her French press to me upon leaving after a five-week stay. Coffee included. This made my day, big time. I can’t even tell you. She also worked on the same data set that I used for my biostatistics project. Small world, this public health business.

I’ll try to upload photos one of these days, but our Internet is somewhat sketchy. It’s also challenging because all 41 of us tend to be trying to use it at once. That’s the nature of the game, but it makes the whole system pretty slow.

Salani kahle!

Cooking

We had a cooking competition over the weekend — a la "Top Chef." My team didn't win, but we made an amazing lemon meringue pie using a Dutch oven and creativity. We toasted the peaks in the meringue with matches.

My family is still lovely, and I'm getting into a routine that makes me comfortable. We have our language test in a week, and we'll get to visit a game park and then get our cell phones. I hope to have more regular Internet access then.

Thanks to all who have written or sent things!

Update!

July 6, 2012

Sanibonani!

We have officially entered our second week in Swaziland, and I think it’s safe to say we’re all far from being experts on our new home. Every day involves learning experiences, however. We went shopping for the first time on Friday. It was a bit of a relief to be able to buy the things we forgot and those we didn’t know we needed. Washcloths were key on my list (to improve the bucket-bathing experience), as were a pitcher (for washing hair), a broom and a small mirror with a stand. I realized early on that I was leaving the house without glancing at myself in the mirror. That’s OK, of course, but I was still curious. I also haven’t been wearing contacts because they’re a pain to put in and keep clean. I want to have the option of wearing them, however, so a mirror is a bit of a necessity. I probably could have gotten by with my compact mirror, but you know how it goes. Women.

Our Fourth of July celebration was great. The U.S. ambassador gave a brief presentation, and we got to spend several hours learning from the current volunteers. Group 9 is entering its second year, and Group 8 is (mostly) on the way out. Several volunteers are extending their service, so we’ll have the benefit of their expertise as we go forward.

The language remains a challenge, but everyone on my homestead is very helpful as I muddle through. I’m beginning to see the structure of siSwati, which makes a big difference as I try to learn prefixes, suffixes, etc. We’re also doing a lot of training on our Peace Corps projects, focusing mostly on PC’s strategy. So far, so good.

The food is still treating me well. I had goat for the first time the other night, and we’ve had chicken and beans on other occasions. I’m on the schedule to cook on Sunday night. I think some neighbors are coming over, so here’s hoping I don’t embarrass myself. Or America.

A neighbor taught me the proper way to eat a grapefruit today, and I’ve got to say it’s a vast improvement on my experience with that fruit in the U.S. She removed all the membrane from each slice and ate out the fruit pulp inside. Much less bitter that way. It’s messy, but I might be a convert.

I don’t need anything right now, but if you’d like to send a letter, I’d love to read it and respond. I even bought envelopes today! The first 20 of you are covered. So far, I’ve received a confirmation of my out-of-country voting address from St. Louis County. They’re on the ball, man.

My mailing address:

My name, PCV

US Peace Corps

P.O. Box 2797

Mbabane, H100

Swaziland

AFRICA

Salani kahle, my American friends!

Update!

July 6, 2012

Sanibonani!

We have officially entered our second week in Swaziland, and I think it’s safe to say we’re all far from being experts on our new home. Every day involves learning experiences, however. We went shopping for the first time on Friday. It was a bit of a relief to be able to buy the things we forgot and those we didn’t know we needed. Washcloths were key on my list (to improve the bucket-bathing experience), as were a pitcher (for washing hair), a broom and a small mirror with a stand. I realized early on that I was leaving the house without glancing at myself in the mirror. That’s OK, of course, but I was still curious. I also haven’t been wearing contacts because they’re a pain to put in and keep clean. I want to have the option of wearing them, however, so a mirror is a bit of a necessity. I probably could have gotten by with my compact mirror, but you know how it goes. Women.

Our Fourth of July celebration was great. The U.S. ambassador gave a brief presentation, and we got to spend several hours learning from the current volunteers. Group 9 is entering its second year, and Group 8 is (mostly) on the way out. Several volunteers are extending their service, so we’ll have the benefit of their expertise as we go forward.

The language remains a challenge, but everyone on my homestead is very helpful as I muddle through. I’m beginning to see the structure of siSwati, which makes a big difference as I try to learn prefixes, suffixes, etc. We’re also doing a lot of training on our Peace Corps projects, focusing mostly on PC’s strategy. So far, so good.

The food is still treating me well. I had goat for the first time the other night, and we’ve had chicken and beans on other occasions. I’m on the schedule to cook on Sunday night. I think some neighbors are coming over, so here’s hoping I don’t embarrass myself. Or America.

A neighbor taught me the proper way to eat a grapefruit today, and I’ve got to say it’s a vast improvement on my experience with that fruit in the U.S. She removed all the membrane from each slice and ate out the fruit pulp inside. Much less bitter that way. It’s messy, but I might be a convert.

I don’t need anything right now, but if you’d like to send a letter, I’d love to read it and respond. I even bought envelopes today! The first 20 of you are covered. So far, I’ve received a confirmation of my out-of-country voting address from St. Louis County. They’re on the ball, man.

My mailing address:

My name, PCV

US Peace Corps

P.O. Box 2797

Mbabane, H100

Swaziland

AFRICA

Salani kahle, my American friends!

Update!

July 6, 2012

Sanibonani!

We have officially entered our second week in Swaziland, and I think it’s safe to say we’re all far from being experts on our new home. Every day involves learning experiences, however. We went shopping for the first time on Friday. It was a bit of a relief to be able to buy the things we forgot and those we didn’t know we needed. Washcloths were key on my list (to improve the bucket-bathing experience), as were a pitcher (for washing hair), a broom and a small mirror with a stand. I realized early on that I was leaving the house without glancing at myself in the mirror. That’s OK, of course, but I was still curious. I also haven’t been wearing contacts because they’re a pain to put in and keep clean. I want to have the option of wearing them, however, so a mirror is a bit of a necessity. I probably could have gotten by with my compact mirror, but you know how it goes. Women.

Our Fourth of July celebration was great. The U.S. ambassador gave a brief presentation, and we got to spend several hours learning from the current volunteers. Group 9 is entering its second year, and Group 8 is (mostly) on the way out. Several volunteers are extending their service, so we’ll have the benefit of their expertise as we go forward.

The language remains a challenge, but everyone on my homestead is very helpful as I muddle through. I’m beginning to see the structure of siSwati, which makes a big difference as I try to learn prefixes, suffixes, etc. We’re also doing a lot of training on our Peace Corps projects, focusing mostly on PC’s strategy. So far, so good.

The food is still treating me well. I had goat for the first time the other night, and we’ve had chicken and beans on other occasions. I’m on the schedule to cook on Sunday night. I think some neighbors are coming over, so here’s hoping I don’t embarrass myself. Or America.

A neighbor taught me the proper way to eat a grapefruit today, and I’ve got to say it’s a vast improvement on my experience with that fruit in the U.S. She removed all the membrane from each slice and ate out the fruit pulp inside. Much less bitter that way. It’s messy, but I might be a convert.

I don’t need anything right now, but if you’d like to send a letter, I’d love to read it and respond. I even bought envelopes today! The first 20 of you are covered. So far, I’ve received a confirmation of my out-of-country voting address from St. Louis County. They’re on the ball, man.

My mailing address:

My name, PCV

US Peace Corps

P.O. Box 2797

Mbabane, H100

Swaziland

AFRICA

Salani kahle, my American friends!

Update!

July 6, 2012

Sanibonani!

We have officially entered our second week in Swaziland, and I think it’s safe to say we’re all far from being experts on our new home. Every day involves learning experiences, however. We went shopping for the first time on Friday. It was a bit of a relief to be able to buy the things we forgot and those we didn’t know we needed. Washcloths were key on my list (to improve the bucket-bathing experience), as were a pitcher (for washing hair), a broom and a small mirror with a stand. I realized early on that I was leaving the house without glancing at myself in the mirror. That’s OK, of course, but I was still curious. I also haven’t been wearing contacts because they’re a pain to put in and keep clean. I want to have the option of wearing them, however, so a mirror is a bit of a necessity. I probably could have gotten by with my compact mirror, but you know how it goes. Women.

Our Fourth of July celebration was great. The U.S. ambassador gave a brief presentation, and we got to spend several hours learning from the current volunteers. Group 9 is entering its second year, and Group 8 is (mostly) on the way out. Several volunteers are extending their service, so we’ll have the benefit of their expertise as we go forward.

The language remains a challenge, but everyone on my homestead is very helpful as I muddle through. I’m beginning to see the structure of siSwati, which makes a big difference as I try to learn prefixes, suffixes, etc. We’re also doing a lot of training on our Peace Corps projects, focusing mostly on PC’s strategy. So far, so good.

The food is still treating me well. I had goat for the first time the other night, and we’ve had chicken and beans on other occasions. I’m on the schedule to cook on Sunday night. I think some neighbors are coming over, so here’s hoping I don’t embarrass myself. Or America.

A neighbor taught me the proper way to eat a grapefruit today, and I’ve got to say it’s a vast improvement on my experience with that fruit in the U.S. She removed all the membrane from each slice and ate out the fruit pulp inside. Much less bitter that way. It’s messy, but I might be a convert.

I don’t need anything right now, but if you’d like to send a letter, I’d love to read it and respond. I even bought envelopes today! The first 20 of you are covered. So far, I’ve received a confirmation of my out-of-country voting address from St. Louis County. They’re on the ball, man.

My mailing address:

My name, PCV

US Peace Corps

P.O. Box 2797

Mbabane, H100

Swaziland

AFRICA

Salani kahle, my American friends!

Update!

July 6, 2012

Sanibonani!

We have officially entered our second week in Swaziland, and I think it’s safe to say we’re all far from being experts on our new home. Every day involves learning experiences, however. We went shopping for the first time on Friday. It was a bit of a relief to be able to buy the things we forgot and those we didn’t know we needed. Washcloths were key on my list (to improve the bucket-bathing experience), as were a pitcher (for washing hair), a broom and a small mirror with a stand. I realized early on that I was leaving the house without glancing at myself in the mirror. That’s OK, of course, but I was still curious. I also haven’t been wearing contacts because they’re a pain to put in and keep clean. I want to have the option of wearing them, however, so a mirror is a bit of a necessity. I probably could have gotten by with my compact mirror, but you know how it goes. Women.

Our Fourth of July celebration was great. The U.S. ambassador gave a brief presentation, and we got to spend several hours learning from the current volunteers. Group 9 is entering its second year, and Group 8 is (mostly) on the way out. Several volunteers are extending their service, so we’ll have the benefit of their expertise as we go forward.

The language remains a challenge, but everyone on my homestead is very helpful as I muddle through. I’m beginning to see the structure of siSwati, which makes a big difference as I try to learn prefixes, suffixes, etc. We’re also doing a lot of training on our Peace Corps projects, focusing mostly on PC’s strategy. So far, so good.

The food is still treating me well. I had goat for the first time the other night, and we’ve had chicken and beans on other occasions. I’m on the schedule to cook on Sunday night. I think some neighbors are coming over, so here’s hoping I don’t embarrass myself. Or America.

A neighbor taught me the proper way to eat a grapefruit today, and I’ve got to say it’s a vast improvement on my experience with that fruit in the U.S. She removed all the membrane from each slice and ate out the fruit pulp inside. Much less bitter that way. It’s messy, but I might be a convert.

I don’t need anything right now, but if you’d like to send a letter, I’d love to read it and respond. I even bought envelopes today! The first 20 of you are covered. So far, I’ve received a confirmation of my out-of-country voting address from St. Louis County. They’re on the ball, man.

My mailing address:

My name, PCV

US Peace Corps

P.O. Box 2797

Mbabane, H100

Swaziland

AFRICA

Salani kahle, my American friends!

Changes!

 We moved in with our temporary host families Monday, in a village called Nkamandzi. I live in a room next door to a woman about my age and 12-year-old twin girls. I have met the mother of the woman my age (make — the “k” is a “g” sound) but not the father or the brothers. The village is in a town surrounded by mountains.

The family’s house is the highest up in elevation, so I have an amazing view of the valley. I have my own room with a double bed, a chair, and a small table and chair. We have electricity, and there’s a TV. The family has an electric stove but mostly cooks with a wood stove inside or over a wood fire outside. There’s a latrine on top of a small hill behind the house, and it’s very clean.

The twin girls cooked dinner, which consisted of white rice, cabbage fried in oil and salt, cooked tinned fish and baked beans. It was delicious.

The Peace Corps provides us with a gas stove, utensils, basins for bathing/dishes/washing and buckets. They also provided a huge bag of food for the family and for me. It’s meant to supplement their food because the family will cook dinner with me for the next two weeks. I’ll have to cook for myself after that. The twin girls, Lindela and Sindela, fetched bread from the store for me so I could make myself a peanut butter sandwich to bring to school for lunch.

The family farms, and there are cows, dogs, goats, chickens and cats on the property. I haven’t met any of the men yet. My siSwati name is Nonhlanhlha, which means “we are lucky to have you.” I won’t even try to write out the pronunciation.

I’ve had my first bucket baths, though I haven’t quite mastered them yet. I’ve also started the three-step water process.

We travel back to the school campus for class on some days. This morning, 21 of us crammed into a van, called and ikhumbi, to come to school. On other days, we’ll stay in our village and have lessons from our language teachers, who are staying in the village with us. My teacher is Metzi. Tomorrow, we’ll go to the country director’s house for a Fourth of July picnic. I’m excited to do that because we’ll be able to meet with the Peace Corps volunteers who are here now.